The encyclopaedia of gravy
Dried mushrooms are among the most concentrated sources of umami available, and their soaking liquid is as valuable as the mushrooms themselves.
Why they are so effective¶
Fresh mushrooms contain glutamates. Drying them concentrates those and also generates guanylate, a nucleotide that amplifies the perception of umami several times over when combined with glutamate.
This synergy is the reason a small handful of dried porcini does more for a vegetarian gravy than a large quantity of fresh mushrooms, and why dried mushrooms are worth their price.
See umami in gravy.
How to use them¶
- Cover 10–15 g with 150–200 ml of hot (not boiling) water. Leave 20 minutes.
- Lift the mushrooms out and chop them.
- Pour the soaking liquid off carefully, leaving the last spoonful behind — dried mushrooms carry grit, and it settles.
- Add both the chopped mushrooms and the strained liquid to the gravy with the stock.
💡 Chef's tip
Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or a piece of kitchen paper if you want it perfectly clean. It is worth the two minutes in a smooth, strained gravy.
Which to buy¶
| Variety | Character |
|---|---|
| Porcini (cep) | The best all-rounder — deep, woodland, meaty |
| Mixed wild | Good value; variable |
| Shiitake | Strong, slightly smoky; very high in guanylate |
| Morel | Expensive, distinctive; for special occasions |
| Dried mushroom powder | Convenient; ½ tsp stirred straight in |
Mushroom powder¶
Grinding dried mushrooms in a spice grinder gives a powder that can be stirred directly into a gravy with no soaking. Half a teaspoon adds depth to almost any gravy, meat or otherwise — one of the most useful things to keep in a gravy cupboard.