Mushroom gravy

What it is¶

Mushroom gravy earns its place through chemistry, not charity. Mushrooms are rich in glutamates and, when dried, in guanylates — the two compounds that between them produce the savoury sensation of meat. Browned properly, they deliver the depth that a vegetarian gravy otherwise has to fake.

It comes in two styles: rustic, with slices of mushroom left whole in the gravy, and smooth, blended until velvety. Both are correct, and blending half the batch gives you body and texture at once.

History¶

Mushroom ketchup — a thin, dark, intensely savoury mushroom extract — was a staple of English kitchens from the eighteenth century and a direct ancestor of both Worcestershire sauce and modern mushroom gravies. Mrs Beeton's household manual lists several mushroom sauces for meat.

Mushroom gravy's modern prominence, though, is a story of vegetarian and vegan cookery from the 1970s onwards, and of the nut roast needing something to be poured over it.

Typical ingredients¶

Flavour profile¶

Deep, earthy and lingering, with a woodland note from the dried mushrooms and a clean savoury finish. A good one is mistaken for meat gravy more often than vegetarians let on.

What to serve it with¶

Nut roast, mashed potato, vegan sausages, roast vegetables, chips, steak (it is excellent with beef despite being meat-free), Yorkshire puddings and pies. See vegan gravy.

The traditional recipe¶

Serves 4 · 30 minutes

You need

• 250 g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
• 10 g dried porcini, soaked in 150 ml hot water
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 tsp thyme leaves
• 2 tbsp plain flour
• 500 ml hot vegetable stock
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• Black pepper

Method

1. Soak the porcini in hot water for 20 minutes. Lift them out, chop, and keep the liquid — pour it off carefully, leaving any grit behind.
2. Heat the oil in a wide pan until hot. Add the fresh mushrooms in a single layer and leave them alone for 2 minutes before stirring. They will release water; keep going until that water has gone and the mushrooms are properly browned. This takes 8–10 minutes and is the whole point.
3. Add the onion, garlic and thyme and cook 8 minutes until soft.
4. Stir in the flour, cook 2 minutes, then add the chopped porcini.
5. Whisk in the stock and the reserved soaking liquid gradually.
6. Simmer 10 minutes, add the soy sauce, and season with plenty of black pepper. Blend half, if you like it silkier.

The quick version¶

Serves 4 · 12 minutes

You need

• 150 g mushrooms, sliced
• 2 tbsp oil
• 1 tbsp plain flour
• 400 ml hot vegetable stock
• 1 tbsp soy sauce

Method

1. Fry the mushrooms hard in the oil for 6 minutes until browned.
2. Stir in the flour, then the stock, whisking.
3. Simmer 4 minutes, add the soy sauce and pepper.

Vegetarian and vegan versions¶

This is the vegetarian version. To make it vegan, use oil rather than butter and check your stock. To make it richer for a special dinner, stir in a spoon of oat cream or a splash of port at the end.

Common mistakes¶

Crowding the pan — mushrooms steam in their own liquid and go grey. Use a wide pan and high heat, and cook in batches if you must.

Adding salt to the mushrooms early — it draws out water and prevents browning. Salt at the end.

Skipping the dried mushrooms — they contribute far more depth than their weight suggests.

Pouring in the gritty soaking liquid — let it settle and pour it off, leaving the last spoonful behind.

See also¶

• vegan gravy
• vegetarian gravy
• umami in gravy
• why mushrooms taste savoury