The encyclopaedia of gravy
A teaspoon of mustard sharpens a gravy, and its natural emulsifiers help keep fat suspended rather than floating.
What it does¶
Sharpness. Mustard's pungency cuts fat, which is why it belongs with pork and gammon.
Emulsification. Mustard contains mucilage and other compounds that act as emulsifiers, helping fat stay suspended in the liquid rather than separating out. This is the same property that makes it essential in a vinaigrette. In a gravy the effect is modest but real — see emulsification in gravy.
Umami and salt, in smaller measure.
Which mustard¶
| Type | Character | Best in |
|---|---|---|
| Wholegrain | Mild, textured, visible seeds | Pork and cider gravy |
| Dijon | Clean, sharp, smooth | Beef, chicken, cream gravies |
| English | Very hot, sharp | Beef; use half as much |
| American | Mild, sweet, vinegary | White gravies; sparingly |
| Mustard powder | Concentrated | ¼ tsp, mixed with water first |
When to add it¶
Near the end, and off a hard boil. Mustard's heat comes from volatile compounds that dissipate with prolonged cooking — boil it for twenty minutes and you have the flavour without the kick, which is sometimes what you want and usually not.
The classic pairings¶
- Pork and cider gravy with wholegrain mustard — see pork gravy.
- Beef gravy with ½ tsp English mustard, undetectable as mustard, making the gravy taste more of beef.
- Sausages and mash with a teaspoon of English mustard stirred into the onion gravy, a pub standard in the north of England.
- Cream gravies, where Dijon balances the richness.