The encyclopaedia of gravy
Mustard with gammon, cranberry sauce with turkey and mint sauce with lamb are classic Christmas pairings because each condiment cuts through the richness of the meat. Their acidity, sweetness and freshness also make a substantial roast dinner taste less monotonous.
The Christmas table tends to contain enough richness without requiring assistance: roast meat, stuffing, pigs in blankets, potatoes and gravy arrive in close formation. Condiments provide the necessary contrast. Mustard supplies heat and acidity to gammon; cranberry sauce brings tart fruit to turkey; mint sauce gives lamb a fresh, vinegary lift.
These pairings are customary rather than compulsory. Cranberry sauce is not essential to turkey, mint sauce is not the only respectable partner for lamb, and a properly made gravy for christmas dinner remains useful to all three. But each condiment has a particular job, and replacing one with a random sweet chutney is not always an improvement.
The three classic pairings¶
| Meat | Condiment | Main effect | Usual form |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gammon | Mustard | Heat, salt-balancing acidity | English, Dijon or wholegrain mustard |
| Turkey | Cranberry sauce | Tartness and fruit sweetness | Spoonable sauce or relish |
| Lamb | Mint sauce | Herbal freshness and vinegar | Finely chopped mint in malt vinegar |
The proportions matter. Condiment should sharpen the meat rather than conceal it. A teaspoon of mustard may be enough for a slice of gammon; a tablespoon of cranberry sauce is a more usual portion with turkey; mint sauce is traditionally served in small spoonfuls because vinegar can quickly dominate the plate.
Mustard with gammon¶
Gammon is cured pork, so it already brings salt and a firm, savoury flavour. Mustard works by adding pungency and acidity, particularly when the meat is served hot with a sweet glaze. English mustard gives the strongest nasal heat; Dijon is smoother and more wine-like; wholegrain mustard contributes texture as well as a gentler burn.
For a glazed joint, mustard can be used both before cooking and at the table. A simple glaze combines 2 tablespoons English or Dijon mustard with 2 tablespoons brown sugar or honey. Brush it over the boiled or soaked gammon and roast at 200°C, or 180°C fan, for 20–25 minutes, until the surface is browned and sticky. The sugar should caramelise, not blacken.
A cold slice of gammon benefits from a more assertive mustard than a hot slice served with gravy. Apple sauce, pickles and redcurrant jelly and other sweet additions can also work, but mustard is the cleanest match because it does not add another heavy layer of sweetness.
⚠️ Mustard is not a substitute for soaking
Cured gammon varies in saltiness. If the joint requires soaking, follow the butcher's instructions or soak it in cold water, changing the water as advised. A mustard glaze will not rescue meat that is excessively salty.
Cranberry sauce with turkey¶
Turkey is relatively lean, particularly the breast, and has a mild flavour that can seem subdued beside stuffing and roast potatoes. Cranberry sauce supplies acidity, colour and a concentrated fruit note. Its tartness also offsets fatty sausage meat, bacon and rich giblet gravy.
A basic sauce needs little more than cranberries, sugar and water. For about 500g sauce, simmer 300g fresh or frozen cranberries, 150g caster sugar and 150ml water in a saucepan for 10–12 minutes. The berries burst, the liquid thickens and the sauce continues to set as it cools. Add a strip of orange zest or a little orange juice if desired, but avoid turning it into an indistinct Christmas preserve with every available spice.
The sauce is best made at least a day ahead. Chilling allows the pectin in the fruit to produce a spoonable texture, while serving it at room temperature restores some of its aroma. A sauce that is too sharp can be corrected with a little more sugar; one that is too sweet needs acidity, usually orange juice or a small amount of lemon juice, rather than more fruit.
Cranberry sauce belongs beside turkey rather than in the gravy. Heated cranberry purée can be used in some sauces, but mixing the two on the plate preserves the contrast between brown savoury gravy and bright red fruit. The same logic explains why cranberry sauce remains useful in a turkey sandwich the next day.
Mint sauce with lamb¶
Traditional British mint sauce is not a thick green purée. It is finely chopped fresh mint steeped in vinegar, usually malt vinegar, with enough sugar to soften the sharpness. The vinegar cuts through lamb fat while the mint supplies a cool herbal flavour.
For a small bowl, strip and finely chop a generous handful of mint leaves, stir in 4 tablespoons malt vinegar and 1 teaspoon caster sugar, then leave it for at least 20 minutes. Add a tablespoon or two of boiling water if a looser sauce is wanted. The quantity of sugar is a matter of balance: the sauce should remain distinctly vinegary, not become mint-flavoured syrup.
Mint jelly is a different preparation. It is sweeter, thicker and often coloured, and has become familiar alongside roast lamb. It can be perfectly serviceable, but it should not be described as traditional mint sauce merely because both contain mint. Fresh mint sauce is particularly good with a rich shoulder or best gravy for roast lamb; a delicate rack of lamb may need only a small amount.
Serving all three at Christmas¶
Condiments should be portioned before the meal rather than left in their jars on the table. Put mustard in a small dish, cranberry sauce in a spoonable bowl and mint sauce in a shallow jug or ramekin. This prevents a large spoon from travelling between sauces and makes the intended pairings clear without treating them as laws.
The condiments also have different storage requirements. Cranberry sauce keeps well when covered and refrigerated, usually for several days. Mustard is commercially stable according to its label. Fresh mint sauce is best made on the day or the evening before, as the leaves lose colour and freshness in prolonged storage. Keep all three separate from hot gravy until serving; heat is useful for a glaze, but not for preserving the character of the finished sauces.
A Christmas table may reasonably offer more than one condiment, especially where turkey, gammon and lamb appear across successive meals. The useful principle is simple: mustard for cured pork, cranberry for mild poultry, and mint for fatty lamb. The gravy still has the larger jug.